Here’s where it gets funny: health departments usually ban pre-made tartare from retail sale. They don’t trust the supply chain. But restaurants can serve it raw because they control the entire process from cow to plate.
Think of it as a handshake deal with the butcher. The chef buys a whole, freshly cut tenderloin from a trusted source. They know the farm, the slaughter date, and the fridge it slept in. It’s a tiny, traceable world.
In France, the dish has a legal status of “viande crue” (raw meat). It’s not a loophole; it’s a tradition codified. The culture says: “This is fine, if you do it right.” Americans freak out. The French shrug.